Pump Fails Prime
Updated
by
Juan Velez
This bulletin covers the following Champion Power Equipment models: All models that utilize quick-connect hoses.
- To reduce the risk of injury, user must read and understand the operator’s manual before using this product.
- DO NOT make any adjustments to the product without first stopping the engine and disconnecting the spark plug wire.
- Burns from hot parts — let the engine cool completely before touching hot parts.
- Injury from moving parts
- To reduce the possibility of fire or explosion, be careful when working around gasoline. Keep cigarettes, sparks and flames away from all fuel‐related parts.
Remove the couple and re-wrap the threaded area of number eight with seven layers of Teflon tape. The tape must be wrapped clockwise as shown. (Pipe Dope can be used instead of Teflon tape.)
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Reinstall the coupler to the pump flange and tighten it with a crescent wrench, combination wrench, pipe wrench, or adjustable pliers. Caveman tight is how tight we want it.
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The suction hose and the hose clamp at the coupler must be tightened with a wrench or socket NOT just a screw driver.
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The CAM locks must be fully locked and the levers completely drawn back towards the hose and seated.
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The priming plug needs to be removed and the pump body must be filled to the top before starting the unit to pump.
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Partially restricting the discharge hose by squeezing or bending it 90 degrees to the outlet flange can help reduce priming time; prime time can be as much as five minutes. If it is still not priming, remove the Quick Connector and put some water soluable grease on the big, black O-Ring that seals between the flange and the coupler.
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There should not be any leaks between #1 and #2 or around #12 and #18. Any type of leak in these areas indicate a seal or O-Ring failure and a replacement part is required.
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